Mgahinga is Uganda’s smallest national park, a mist-shrouded landscape of volcanic peaks, dense bamboo forests and one of the last remaining strongholds of the endangered mountain gorilla. Established in 1992 to protect this iconic species, it became a conservation success story celebrated around the world.
Yet that success came at a human cost. The creation of the park led to the eviction of the indigenous Batwa people, who had lived in these forests for generations. Removed from their ancestral lands, many families faced poverty and cultural dislocation. Today, they remain among the most disadvantaged indigenous peoples in Africa. This photographic journey seeks to illuminate that imbalance, documenting the challenges faced by the Batwa and the resilience of a community striving to preserve its culture, identity and connection to place. In doing so, it hopes to contribute to a broader conversation about conservation, justice and the people too often excluded from both.
It’s impossible to travel on foot through this area and avoid detection by the armies of smiling children roaming through the valleys
James Appleton
Mgahinga National Park was created to protect the little remaining habitat and population of mountain gorillas such as this female
James Appleton
Batwa guides moving barefoot ahead of hikers along the official ‘Batwa Trail’ in the park while the boot-shod party labours behind
James Appleton
The farmland surrounding the park used to intrude high onto the slopes of the volcanoes until a boundary wall was constructed
James Appleton
Our unofficial Batwa guide on the outskirts of Bwindi – but not in it. He has everything required to be an excellent forest guide, but isn’t allowed
James Appleton
In spite of being evicted from the forest, Batwa guide Echuya is an endless source of knowledge and wisdom on the region’s plant species
James Appleton
Mount Sabyinyo, whose summit trisects Rwanda, Uganda and the DRC, cuts an intimidating skyline above Mgahinga
James Appleton
The Abakiga, or mountain-people, are one of several ethnic groups who call the highlands of southwest Uganda home
James Appleton
Under the towering slopes of Mount Muhavura lies the serene Lake Kayumba, an oasis of calm tucked away among the hills
James Appleton
This ancient lava tube used to be the seat of the local Batwa king – the shelter it offered serving as both a hideaway in times of conflict
James Appleton
There are, as yet, still no official Batwa guides within the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, despite it being their ancestral land
James Appleton
Lake Bunyonyi, which sits at 1962m above sea level, is one of Africa’s deepest lakes, with depths rumoured to reach 900m
James Appleton
Aside from our visit, the Batwa Trail Experience in Mgahinga had only had two other bookings in the last twelve months
James Appleton
The next South West Uganda expedition runs from 3 to 16 January 2027. For more information, visit nomadicskies.com