Alistair MacQueen knew he was born to be a monarch, but he just hadn’t found the right castle. Until now, that is
Driveways can tell you a lot about a hotel. Think of the Savoy, a place so unique, even its tarmac entrance demands that you flout conventional traffic laws and enter and exit on the right. Stonefield Castle might differ in many ways from the Savoy, but situated as it is in Scotland’s Kintyre peninsula and on the banks of Loch Fyne, our approach to the castle was as equally special. Under the corridor of trees that sheltered the driveway, the lone deer we startled gave a hint to the wilds we were now entering, before the bold and inviting edifice of Stonefield hoved into view. The castle was built in 1837, but the 60-acre estate was in the hands of the Campbell family since 1746, until it was sold 200 years later. Today, manager Anne MacDonald and her team excel in being inconspicuous yet attentive, and service is friendly but never fawning.
Stepping through the capacious porch we were led into the cavernous reception area, replete with roaring fire, past the drawing room’s come-hither sofas, the intimate and well-stocked library, and up to the grand staircase overlooked by two of the building’s many huge paintings. Nothing is measly in Stonefield, and the bedroom certainly follows suit. The luxurious four-poster bed we had would mollify the most desirous (not to mention corpulent) of nobleman, while the elegant wood panelling and rich, interior decor evoked a brooding Scottish romanticism of old. Heading to the bar was an equally pleasant experience; there are plenty of whiskies on offer, but make sure you read Jim Murray’s (signed) Whisky Bible handily located on the bar before making your decision. Suffice to say, we slept well that night.
After a full Scottish breakfast the next morning overlooking the inspiring view of Loch Fyne’s levitating mist in the castle’s dining room to the rear, a spot of clay pigeon shooting was in order. A five-minute walk up the road led us to Bob McColl, an amiable chap who had me rattling out shot after shot, determined to make my aim and technique better. Feeling suitably refreshed, it was time for an afternoon tea (served on a cake stand almost as high as the castle’s turrets) and a stroll around Stonefield’s sprawling grounds, which revealed a number of Himalayan species of rhododendron as well as fuchsias. The Campbells’ companionship with a well-travelled botanist has really come to fruition.
Dinner in the restaurant was all about the freshest seafood, with delicate crab fritters and moreish Loch Fyne oysters. Indeed, so absorbed was I in the mussels and clams in white wine sauce for mains, that I’d neglected to notice Steve Cram at the table behind me until I was told by my wife during our postprandial dram. As the Highland Park took effect, our weekend had consisted of shooting, eating, relaxing and sheer pleasure. Truly then, for those to the manor born, all driveways lead to Stonefield.
An overnight stay at Stonefield Castle (stonefieldcastlehotel.com) costs from £180 for a Principal Room, per night based on two adults sharing. Clay Pigeon shooting can be arranged by the hotel at a neighbouring farm and costs £30 per person. Other country pursuits, including fishing and deer stalking, can be arranged by the hotel. British Airways (0844 493 0758; ba.com/glasgow) offers a seven night fly-drive to Glasgow from £169 per person for travel in June. Price includes return British Airways flights from London City, Avis Inclusive car hire for the duration, based on two sharing. British Airways flies daily from London City to Glasgow.
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