It’s 7am on a Tuesday morning, and rather than the usual chorus of dustbins being emptied outside my north London flat, I’m woken by a wholly unfamiliar soundtrack of waves lapping and birds tweeting. But this isn’t an expensive alarm clock programmed with the sounds of nature (although for a minute, I do wonder) – this is the real deal.

Lying in my ‘swag’ tent on top of a pontoon 50km from shore, I’m being woken up by the Great Barrier Reef. Looking out from my makeshift bed, all I can see for miles is azure water, glistening in the early morning sunshine – and I’m not the only one up and about. As well as the menagerie of tropical birds that are circling overhead, a closer inspection of the surf reveals swarms of colourful fish and several turtles lazily meandering past the precious coral.

It’s at this point that I realise just how far from home I am: 10,000 miles to be precise; and unless space travel becomes more viable, I’m unlikely to be this far away again. Like Dorothy looking out on the land of Oz (how very apt), suddenly everything seems to have been ramped up into technicolour, as though I’ve been squeezed through an Instagram filter and come out of the other side. No wonder they call it Down Under.

This is just one of several ‘pinch myself’ moments that have happened over the last 24 hours – and they keep on coming.

What I failed to think about when signing up to a trip that takes in one of the most naturally beautiful landscapes on Earth, is that I’m quite partial to being on terra firma. Flying is endured, rather than enjoyed, and my idea of exploring open waters abroad is often the hotel’s infinity pool (strictly the shallow end, mind you). But a few days in nature’s playground and I’ve been totally sucked in; my initial hesitance to snorkel has given way to a bona fide diving session and while I cling to my instructor for dear life for the entire duration (thank you, Scott), it may just be one of the most amazing things I’ve ever done.Special mention to the grouper fish; many of whom, at over five feet long, were giving me a run for my money in the size stakes.

Where to stay

Heron Island

Fifty kilometres from shore and still fairly underdeveloped, this island plays host to hundreds of birds, fish and turtles (but no herons). Less than a square mile in size and rural in feel, this small archipelago isn’t a world away from when it was discovered in 1843 – there’s not even mobile reception, enforcing a blissful digital detox. David Attenborough visited the island while filming out on the reef, becoming enchanted by the swarms of birds that have set up home there. Well if it’s good enough for him… From £170 pn, heronsland.com

Hayman Island

If it’s unadulterated luxury you’re after, the One & Only Hayman Island is the stuff that postcards are made of. White sands and swaying palm trees are par for the course, with five-star service and haute cuisine to boot. Frequented by couples and honeymooners, the island paradise also offers champagne hampers for sunsets on the beach and a suite designed by Diane von Furstenberg. From £286 pn, oneandonlyresorts.com

Hamilton Island

Neighbouring Hamilton Island (just a 50 minute boat ride from Hayman or a 90 minute flight from Brisbane) has recently undergone a multi-million pound makeover. The largest of the inhabited Whitsunday Islands, the picture-perfect resort houses six varieties of accommodation as well as loads of activities and places to eat, drink and be merry. Head to the island’s highest point, One Tree Hill, for a cocktail overlooking the bay. From £170 pn, hamiltonisland.com

Spanning over 2,000km in length and one of the seven natural wonders of the world, the Great Barrier Reef has long been a go-to destination for keen divers and nature enthusiasts, but a recent boom in tourism has unearthed more visitors keen to take advantage of the region’s bucket-list of activities, while enjoying the tropical temperatures and laid-back Aussie vibe. Getting around has become quick and easy thanks to regular (and cheap) domestic flights, as well as boat trips connecting the islands, and while I never had Australia down as a foodie destination, I’m soon eating my words – and all the fresh seafood in sight. Chatting to locals, expats and tourists, it’s clear I’m not the only one who’s been hit
by a sudden urge to explore all that this corner of the globe has to offer. To say there must be something in the water here is an understatement, as everyone waxes lyrical about the freedom of such an outdoors lifestyle – not hard to enjoy when temperatures rarely drop below the mid-twenties. And true to form, despite my previous land-lover status, on I plough, boarding seaplanes and helicopters without hesitation, where once I’d have been quaking in my flip flops.

Returning to earth, the crowning jewel of the reef is surely the impeccable and unspoilt beaches – many of which have been awarded National Park status in their own right. Far from battling for towel space with fellow holiday-makers, the sheer number of them means you can make like Robinson Crusoe and enjoy your own private bit of paradise. Lazing on the pristine white sands, it’s not at all uncommon to spot a wallaby hopping between the palm trees, while by night turtles swim ashore to lay their eggs.

Back in my own natural habitat – relaxing pool-side with a piña colada – I’m pleasantly surprised to find the views from land are just as stunning without the adrenaline rush, but like any intrepid explorer, it’s not long before I’m ditching my sun lounger in favour of a kayak and heading back out into the reef in search of my next discovery…

Getting There

Queensland calling

The 74 tropical islands which make up the Whitsundays, to the north of the Great Barrier Reef, are so called because they were discovered by Captain James Cook in 1770 on what he believed to be Whitsunday – the Sunday of the feast of Whitsun (Pentecost) in the Christian calendar. However, it’s now widely believed that since the advent of the international dateline, he actually discovered the islands on a Monday. Which is slightly awkward.

Janelle travelled to the Great Barrier Reef with Tourism and Events Queensland (queensland.com) and Austravel. Austravel is offering an 11-night Great Barrier Reef holiday to Queensland from £2,395 per person, austravel.com. The offer includes three nights at Heron Island, off the Gladstone Coastline; one night at The Point Bargara; one night at Marina Shores in Airlie Beach; two nights at One&Only Hayman Island; three nights at the Reef View Hotel on Hamilton Island and one night back at Marina Shores. This offer includes return international flights from London Gatwick with Emirates, car hire and all transfers to the islands, and is based on departures in June 2016.