What’s the vibe?
Within moments of arriving at Our Habitas Kalahari, just 45 minutes drive from the Windhoek International Airport, and before checking into the room or dropping off luggage, the game viewer vehicle rumbles to a halt, kicking up dust from the ochre-red track, as we spot a leopard resting languorously under an acacia tree. It dashes into the bush, where it joins droves of white rhinoceros, oryx, giraffes, zebras and tens of thousands of other megafauna.
Set within 50,000 hectares of arrestingly wild and sometimes Pleistocene-presenting wilderness, chock full of savannah, sand dunes and salt pans, guests will encounter plenty of creature comforts at Our Habitas Namibia to complement the creatures themselves.
You’ll find 40 stylish tents spread across the hillside with russet-coloured awnings
Kleinjan Groenevald
When you finally do arrive at the safari lodge, which is situated atop a 100-metre-high granite outcrop with panoramic views of the plains below, you’ll find 40 stylish tents spread across the hillside with russet-coloured awnings, massive wraparound porches and the kind of desks that a travel writer dreams about (let’s just say that working from away was a uniquely gratifying experience).
Each tent is crafted from natural materials with all of the mod cons that you’d expect from a five-star stay: beds that you could get lost in; hot showers, wi-fi and the rest. But nothing outshines the sunrise in the morning, when blood-orange sunlight spills over ancient rock in a primordial display of beauty, except perhaps watching a dust storm blow its way across the plains like something out of Aladdin. And, being honest, the sunsets aren’t something you’d sneeze at, either.
To socialise, hang out, eat, or otherwise kick back outside of the privacy of your own room, there’s a large communal area which boasts a peerless infinity pool where you’re likely to catch a glimpse of big game; a wellness centre offering massage and various treatments, a restaurant, and plenty of comfortable seating and engaging reading material.
As with many lodges, it can get pretty social. There’s a fair chance that you’ll make some friends and wake up groggy in the morning after one-too-many sundowners. I found myself engaged in three-hour conversations with multiple guests and members of staff, being a solo traveller.
What to eat?
Your grandparents’ wilderness retreat this is not. Anyone looking to come away from their holiday healthy and refreshed will be spoiled with a menu replete with nutritious options such as shakshuka or cauliflower ceviche with lime, chilli, coriander and corn chips, which you could wash down with a wide array of smoothies, fruit juice, locally grown tea and freshly brewed coffee. In the run-up to an ultramarathon, this is what I was favouring.
However, I also didn’t want to miss the opportunity to sample the local larder, and made sure to save room for dishes such as pepper-crusted oryx tenderloin with pinotage jus and a spinach and potato croquette or camelthorn tiramisu with caramelised banana and chocolate crumbs.
As you might expect, all of this can be washed down with lashings of local and South African wine, not to mention exceptional Windoek and Tafel lager. When the time arrived for me to leave, I felt much more like an antelope than a hippopotamus.
The communal area at Our Habitas Namibia
Thomas Petterson
What to do?
Okay, this is where it gets really exciting. You haven’t flown half the way across the planet to hide in your room and overeat. It’s time to get out there and get up close and personal with some of the most fascinating plants and animals on the planet. Of these, the rarest and most plentiful that you’ll encounter are the white rhinos – watching a mother and her child circle a waterhole has become a core memory. There’s a separate concession which you can visit where elephants and big cats can be visited, for an added fee.
But there are also other ways to explore the landscape, such as with guide and San bushman Beregh Johannes Ilgexam, who escorts guests on private nature walks. Getting dropped off by game viewer and running between broad camelthorns in the desert heat was another pulse-racing, powerful experience.
However, back at the ranch, you’ll find plenty of alternative activities. Of these, sunrise yoga meditation on an elevated plinth offers both a high-vibe morning and views extending 100 kilometres to the horizon. Barring that, there are painting classes, San storytelling around the campfire, outdoor cinemas, and even DJ sets if you’re visiting at the right time. What you can be sure about is that, whether you’re visiting with family, on a honeymoon, with a group of friends or whatever, this is bucket-list safari at its most seductive.
Rates start from £300 per night. For more information, please visit ourhabitas.com or @habitasnamibia
