What’s the vibe?
There’s usually a frisson of excitement when you discover something really good. You’re both pleased with the object itself and a little bit pleased with yourself for having found it. This is likely what you’ll experience at The Upper House in Hong Kong, a hotel where every detail has been meticulously considered. Take, for instance, the arrival process at Hong Kong International Airport. I’m quickly greeted by a man who chaperones me to the transport pick-up area, where I’m ushered into a black BMX iX limousine. An iPad is placed in my hands, and I’m asked whether I’d like to have a meal prepared for my arrival, with a plethora of options ranging from eggs benny to dim sum. Suffice it to say, it’s a novel experience.
The hotel rises above Admiralty, Hong Kong
After a swift 30-minute drive, I arrive at The Upper House. Situated just up the hill from Admiralty and the buzzing Wan Chai neighbourhood, guests are swept past a standing reception up a dimly lit staircase into the masterfully designed property, a finely wrought work of natural materials like oak and bamboo – it’s for good reason that the property has earned fifth place in the World’s 50 Best Hotels’ 2024 rankings. The Upper House offers 117 curated and designed rooms, all of which were designed by André Fu as his first project (he’s since gone on to become one of the top names in Asian hotel design). It opened in 2009 but has aged impeccably – staying here, you’d easily be mistaken in thinking it debuted last year.
The rooms are mind-bendingly sleek and spacious. An enormous sitting room with tasteful reading material and wraparound floor-to-ceiling windows swallows in immense views of one of the world’s most memorable skylines. It’s easy to get lost as you wend your way through the bedroom (enormous windows and bed, of course), then through the spa-like washroom into yet another room with a standing tub and more jaw-dropping vistas. It’s no exaggeration to say you might prefer unwinding with a drink from the well-stocked minibar to venturing out into the city.
The view from a suite bedroom
What to eat?
Salisterra is the hotel’s 49th-floor bar and restaurant, which has been guided by executive chef Ricardo Chaneton, the Venezuelan tour-de-force who owns Mono, a famous Michelin-starred restaurant nearby. The menu shoulder-taps various Western cuisines, running from Spain and France to Italy and Greece, to create dishes that surprise and delight, such as Obsiblue prawn crudo with lemon sauce vierge and radish crudité or butter-soft spring chicken marinated with Catalan spices and served in a roast pepper sauce. The vibe here, whether for breakfast, brunch or dinner, tends to be energetic. One often finds themselves in conversation with the table next door. Alternatively, the cocktail bar is the perfect place to pitch up for towering views and finessed serves, such as a Green Silk Martini with yoghurt-washed Weizza gin, parsley liqueur, orange bitters and olive oil. Trust us, the yoghurt wash works!
Salisterra
What to do?
You’re in Hong Kong. It’s probably more a question of what not to do! On-premises, there are various unique and interesting options for those looking to incorporate a little wellness into their stay. Upon arrival, I was offered the opportunity to drop into a Stone & Star Crystal and the Cosmos session to learn about employing the energies of crystals to gain deeper clarity, awareness, and insight into life, the universe, and everything. Alternatively, jump into a stretch-and-strength session with GOOD Yoga, a HIIT class with Family Form or meet with a nutritionist or chiropractor. There’s plenty to offset the ridiculous amount of food and drink awaiting you outside of the hotel, in one of the world’s most hyperactive cities.
Rooms start from £527 per night; thehousecollective.com
