Snails and Paris have more in common than you may think. And no, this does not reference those served in garlic butter at a brasserie, but rather the Parisien cartography. Shaped like a snail's shell, the map of Paris' districts spirals clockwise from arrondissement to arrondissement, swirling around the iconic landmarks of the 1st, gay bars in the 4th, Haussmann architecture of the 5th and so on.
But why do we mention snails in a hotel review, you ask? Well, it's because Hotel Beauregard sits in the 15th arrondissement, a district on the edge of said snail shell, that, to many, isn't worth visiting. However, a trip to this leafy, residential nook to stay at Hotel Beauregard proves that a night away from the chaos is exactly what you need on a Parisien getaway.
Its location on the city's fringes makes a welcome change from the sensory overload the inner districts subject you to. An opportunity to enjoy a slower pace of city break as you relish authentic Parisien living and peruse the parks, markets and snoozy cafes, while remaining a twenty-minute metro ride from the centre.
Views from Hotel Beauregard, Paris
Romain Courtemanche
Hotel Beauregard, Paris
Romain Courtemanche
The hotel itself, which opened last March, is the fifth property to join the Touriste portfolio – a French hotel group putting the B in boutique with its collection of chic but affordable hotels gracing the landscape of Paris, including Hotel Panache. Touriste designs each hotel with an individual identity, and award-winning architect and designer Chloé Nègre was in charge of that at Hotel Beauregard. Here's our verdict on the hotel, alongside recommendations for places to eat, drink and do in the French capital.
What’s the draw?
Hotel Beauregard is the first hotel by Touriste to cross the Seine to the Left Bank, housed in a handsome Haussman building with 38 bedrooms spread across six floors. Nègre's proclivity for timeless design is ever-present in the decor of Beauregard, inspired by the classic style of a bourgeois French residence.
Each room nods to both Parisien clichés and the seventies – featuring earthy tapestries, Boiserie panelling and tall windows, alongside velour armchairs, Daniel Buren-esque striped bathrooms and geometric carpets. An environmentally friendly approach adopted by Nègre sees the use of recycled textiles, reclaimed bathroom taps and vintage finds throughout the bedrooms and bathrooms.
The rooms, although cute in dimensions, are complete with all the necessities like air conditioning, a stocked mini fridge, wifi and plenty of natural light. Some flaunt balconies, and others a poetic slither of the Eiffel Tower through the window. The bathrooms are modern and well-equipped with waterfall showers, Diptyque toiletries and plush towels. Breakfast is available every morning in the bistro-style breakfast room, serving classic continental fare such as cereals, pastries, fruit and coffee.
Sitting on the crossroads of Rue Vaugirand and Rue Cambronne, Beauregard is located in the 15th arrondissement, a hub of authentic Parisien living home to around 240,000 residents. We recommend spending your days perusing the local bakeries, restaurants and markets, including the Grenelle Food Market on Wednesdays and Sundays and Georges Brassens Book Market on Saturdays and Sundays. Or, to see the centre of Paris, walk ten minutes to Vaugirard station and catch the metro.
Where to eat?
Urfa Durum
58 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, France
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Urfa Durum is the best spot to eat Kurdish kebabs in Paris, and we’d fight you to the death if you disagree. Located in the 9th arrondissement, on a street filled with halal butchers, carpet shops and grocers, you’ll immediately recognise Urfa Durum because of its throng of bowed wooden stalls set up out front. Although the seating isn’t the most comfortable on the derriere, the kebabs here are a delight. Flame-licked chunks of chicken piled into homemade Kurdish bread with tomatoes, onion, coriander and parsley – a must-visit.
Bouillon Pigalle
22 Boulevard de Clichy, 75018
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It's a well-known fact that a trip to Paris can dissipate your wallet, but a visit to Bouillon Pigalle will certainly lessen the blow. It's a gargantuan brasserie-style restaurant serving traditional French food on huge silver trays without the Parisien price tag. Get the artichoke vinaigrette, saucisse au couteau with mash and riz au lait, accompanied by a 3l bottle of cask wine. You won't regret it.
bouillonlesite.com/bouillon-pigalle
Where to drink?
Chez Jeanette
47 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010
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Located just a few minutes walk from Urfa Durum, Chez Jeanette is a quintessentially old-school Parisien spot. Open all day – it’s a great place to start your morning with a coffee and people-watching or end the night with a pastis. Seemingly unchanging since opening, its marble floors, Toulouse-Lautrec wallpaper, and neon signage are undeniably charming.
La Fourmi
74 Rue des Martyrs, 75018
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A few minutes from Bouillon Pigalle, La Fourmi is a cheap and lively bar to head to if the 3-litre bottle of wine still hasn't touched the sides. Open until 1 am, grab a curbside pint or carafe of wine and spend the evening playing cards. A reasonably-priced, good-vibes bar is sometimes hard to come across in Paris, but La Fourmi is part of this rare bread.
What’s to do?
Geurrisol
Various locations
Unpopular opinion, but the touristy things in Paris aren't where it's at. The best things to do are not in the guidebooks, and one of these activities is scouring the racks of Guerrisol. It's a chain of second-hand shops dotted across Paris, featuring vast piles of clothes to sift through. And while lots are busted, stained, or downright ugly, there are some stellar pieces in there, including designer garms for a mere few euros. Deal and a half.
Grande Mosquée de Paris
2 Bis Place du Puits-de-l'Ermite, 75005
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Another place less featured in the guidebooks, The Grande Mosquée de Paris in the Latin Quarter, is a turquoise beacon of tranquillity that warrants a visit. A 33-metre-high minaret dominates the magnificent Hispano-Moresque building filled with intricately tiled rooms, sculpted arcades and gardens. There's also a hammam and restaurant – the latter serving up tagines, baklava and fresh mint tea. You can visit the mosque every day of the week except Fridays and during religious holidays.
Hotel Beauregard
14 Rue Pétel, Paris, 75015
Double rooms start from £115 per night
For more information visit hotelbeauregard.fr
