What’s the vibe?
‘Old-school glamour’ is one of those cobblers that gets peddled around a lot, often stripped of its original meaning, but if you’re after that diamond-studded mid-century vibe, Four Seasons Astir Palace has serious drip.
In the 1960s, the Astir Palace was the jewel in the jet-set crown, and helped to turn Vouliagmeni into Greece’s answer to the Côte d’Azur, attracting royalty, Hollywood stars and politicians to a previously quiet headland. From the airport, the road hugs the Athens Riviera, a 50km sweep of coastline running from Cape Sounio to the city’s southern suburbs, freckled with marinas and pale sand beaches overlooking the Saronic Gulf.
Evening lights glimmer along the Aegean beach
Rupert Peace
Guests arrive by car, of course, but helicopters and yachts are far from unusual. A £600m refurbishment in 2019 brought Martin Brudnizki, K-Studio and Meyer Davis into the fold, elevating the design and securing three Michelin Keys in 2025, alongside a 17th-place finish on the World’s 50 Best Hotels list.
The resort is divided into three distinct areas. Arion, the original building, is wrapped in fragrant evergreens and suits those seeking something quieter. For maximum seclusion, the low-slung 1960s bungalows remain the most discreet option.
Nafsika is newer, larger and more social. It houses the main pools, beaches, children’s crèche and full-service gym, alongside rooms that deliver the full Four Seasons treatment: bespoke beds, marble bathrooms and discreetly hidden televisions. The real draw, though, is the IMAX-rivalling view. Floor-to-ceiling windows and lavender-scented terraces look straight out over the bay. Every Nafsika room boasts both.
The interiors at Avra bar
What to eat and drink?
For mid-century modern design of the sort that once put London on the cultural map, Avra Bar and Pelagos are the obvious starting points, both shaped by Martin Brudnizki. Avra focuses on precise, well-considered cocktails, including the Pine, made with Boatyard gin, mandarin and dry vermouth, and best enjoyed as the Aegean breeze drifts across the terrace.
Nikos Tachmazis, who has time at Bar Termini and The Artesian under his belt, leads the cocktail programme with a focus on seasonality, locality and creativity drawn from his experience in London, Milan and beyond, is a force of nature. Pelagos, named after the Greek word for ocean, builds its Michelin-awarded menus around local produce that has been picked, plucked, reared or caught close to shore.
But there’s plenty more besides. Whether you’re balancing your margarita intake with a steady supply of ceviche at the South American-inspired poolside playground Helios; watching a bartender prepare a Bloody Mary tableside from a trolley, soundtracked by a considered set of 1970s soul at Mercato; or a cryo-cold bottle of assyrtiko alongside local classics at Taverna 37, you can rest assured that you’ll be well-watered and well-fed. Alongside the hotel’s own kitchens, the resort also hosts outposts of Matsuhisa and Beefbar.
Azure waters at Four Seasons Astir Palace
KENSEET
What to do?
The resort is spread across two buildings – Nafsika and Arion – and a series of bungalows dotted across the grounds. Nafsika is the hub of the hotel and is home to Avra, Mercato and Helios plus the expansive hotel gym, this is the building to opt for if you like being in the thick of it.
Its slightly more classic older sibling, Arion, sits a short stroll away and is a touch more laid-back, home to Pelagos, the Astron Lounge, Aristotle’s Cigar Bar and Taverna 37, alongside the hotel spa. If you really want to retreat away from it all, opt for one of the bungalows which have strong 1960s Hollywood energy and are secreted away amongst the pines.
Rooms start at £520 per night; fourseasons.com/athens
