According to India, the reservations manager who welcomes us upon arrival, Raymond Blanc once proposed buying the property that houses Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons from the former owner of the manor house – and was promptly shot down. Ever persistent, he eventually convinced her to sell it to him, and moved his restaurant from Oxford to rural Oxfordshire.
The payoff? Two Michelin stars awarded just a few months after it opened. It’s held onto them for nearly half a century since. Something ventured – something richly gained. The purchase helped propel the chef to stardom, in more ways than one.
You can’t separate the restaurant from the property, which, to my four-year-old daughter, is an absolute adventure to explore. Wandering beyond the manor house’s famous lavender-hemmed walkway, past the aviaries and apiaries, through vegetable gardens more manicured than an heiress, hothouses teeming with sproutlings, apple orchards boughing under the weight of their crop, and a tatami-matted Japanese cottage, we find her favourite spot on the entire property: an old, dormant fountain, situated in the centre of the herb garden.
Inside, a dozen newts waggle their tails to speed through the water, float near its surface, and cavort on its floor. In spite of all the fineries that make Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons one of the most famous luxury hotels in the United Kingdom, it’s a knot of amphibians that becomes the centrepiece of our stay. We make pilgrimage after pilgrimage back to the puddle.
The garden hothouse
What’s the draw?
In many ways, nature is the property’s greatest draw. The name gives it away – all four seasons lend themselves to creating an unforgettable experience for those who book one of its 32 rooms. Though a place to enjoy the finer things in life, Le Manoir is deeply rooted in the earth, with a pioneering and steadfast commitment to sustainability and the environment.
There are daily tours every morning that demonstrate how the garden functions as the kitchen, with over 250 varieties of vegetables, herbs, heritage fruits and edible flowers on display. They help visitors better understand what’s growing now – emphasising the centrality of seasonality (it does exactly what it says on the tin).
Walk through the grounds in the afternoon and you’ll have the chance to chat with expert gardeners about how they maintain the quality of the produce.Head to the restaurant in the evening and you’ll discover just how well these homegrown comestibles can perform in the hands of a world-class chef.
A table in the lobby
What to eat
An appetite is a must-pack. Upon arrival, our suite was fitted with a bottle of vintage Veuve Clicquot and a gluten-free lemon drizzle cake for the ages. It was decimated within an hour. An aperitif was served in the gardens before we were ushered across the lawn to the white-tableclothed restaurant, where reverence hung in the air.
Engineered by Raymond Blanc with support from executive chef Luke Selby (fresh from his Michelin-winning stint launching Evelyn’s Table) and chef pâtissier Benoît Blin, the seven-course Les saveurs du Manoir tasting menu showcases the gardener’s work in grand style, with artful takes on tomato salads, risotto, bouillabaisse and more – dishes that seem to breathe with the seasons.
This was all accompanied by a fabulous wine pairing drawing solely from France, with selections such as a Domaine du Clos Salomon white Burgundy and Domaine François Lumpp Pinot Noir poured freely and generously throughout the meal. Dinner is the main event – expect to be thoroughly indulged. By the end of it, it’ll be readily apparent why this operation has held onto two stars for four decades.
Playing on the grounds
What to do
There’s a lot. Almost too much, in fact. Whether you’re touring the gardens, attending the Raymond Blanc Gardening or Cookery Schools, or watching a live cooking demonstration, this is a great place to upskill on edibles. Barring that, enjoy in-room treatments and unique entertainment, such as an in-room movie night, complete with a popcorn maker.
Out of the room, there are sometimes private photography sessions available with award-winning photographers, a birds-of-prey experience with hawk handling, and the opportunity to visit local sites in Oxford and its surrounds, such as Blenheim Palace.
But it’s also a place to unwind and reconnect with family. If you have a little one, you might want to take them to the Teddy Bear Afternoon Tea. Or, in our case, hang with the newts.
From £955 per night; belmond.com
