What’s the draw
While old Blighty has many draw cards on the natural beauty front – the rugged expanses of the Lake District, the orchard-strewn hills of Somerset and the chocolate-box villages of The Cotswolds, to name a few – it’s not exactly a country known for its paradisiacal beaches. Head to southwestern Cornwall, though, and you’ll discover a coastline more east coast Australia than England, where white powder stretches of sand run for miles and impossibly clear water shimmers Aegean blue, even in the grey dead of winter.
Quintessential fishing village St Ives sits in the thick of it all, flanked to the southwest by the mile-long Carbis Bay, a stretch of sand nudged between two headlands, scampering down to crystalline water that, for the most part, remains placid. It’s no surprise, then, that this little slice of Cornwall gained global attention in 2021 when the government chose it to host the G7 Summit, which sees world leaders convene to discuss major global issues.
Cornish locals are, unsurprisingly, fiercely protective of their corner of paradise, and many weren’t too pleased with the impact this international summit could potentially have on their much-valued sense of peace. I was actually holidaying in St Ives at the time and the disruption, even there, was palpable; a navy ship hovered off the coast for the duration, helicopters buzzed overhead and private security disguised in Ray Bans and Hawaiian shirts slunk past wherever you looked. However, the return visit seems to prove that the impact has not been enduring. Once the world leaders decamped back to their mansions and official residences, the only remaining sign that they had even been here at all are little plaques outside each beachfront lodge that reference the country that resided there for the duration of the weekend.
Scenic bath views in one of the beachfront lodges
Ours was attributed to the UK, which I unsettlingly realised while drifting off one night meant that the bed I was currently in had presumably been slept in by Boris Johnson, too. Not exactly the first person I’d pick as a past-life bedfellow (in fact, probably somewhere near dead last), but not even that horrifying prospect could stop me from blissfully slipping away into the land of nod, lulled by the sound of waves on the sand directly outside and the veritable floating cloud of a bed.
If the spectre of BoJo ever did become too overwhelming, our beachfront lodge has three other rooms to choose from; all of them with ocean views and en-suite loos, so no one feels shortchanged. About as close as you can get to the sea without floating on it, these lodges are the ultimate escape, with direct beach access and sizable hot tubs so you can have a soak and watch the sky transition from bright ochres to flossy pastels as the sun sets. The entire ground floor is dedicated to an enormous kitchen/living/dining area, although curiously lacking in cooking facilities. Not that you need them, though, with the pure glut of drinking and dining options within spitting distance from your beachfront terrace. This is escapism at its absolute best; a peaceful retreat where you can’t help but finally exhale the stresses of everyday life, a tonic in the best possible way.
The food and drink
Carbis Bay Hotel dominates most of the beachfront on this idyllic bay, but all facilities and eateries are open to the public which makes it feel more like a community space than an ultra-exclusive hotel (which is, to be clear, a very good thing, particularly in this corner of Cornwall). When staying in one of the lodges, breakfast is delivered to your door each morning, by way of a box packed full of piping hot sausages and bacon and rolls, plus fruit and granola and all the trimmings. Should you find yourself peckish, though, or simply in the market for a flat white, simply trot down the waterfront to The Deli, for behemoth slices of carrot cake and a few goodies to stock the fridge.
A spread at Walter’s on the Beach
For a special occasion, head upstairs to Adam Handling’s Ugly Butterfly, where panoramic windows offer uninterrupted views of the beach beyond, and the Michelin-starred chef turns locally sourced produce into a series of elegant dishes that sing with a sense of place. Comparatively ‘casual’ dinners take place at Walter’s on the Beach, although the food and service here is far from laid-back. Pulling on a range of culinary influences, the menu reads like a list of things you’d want to eat – gnudi with fried sage, hazelnuts and a Jerusalem artichoke sauce; Thai-style chicken and fish cakes with Thai salad and a sweet chilli dipping sauce; Korean chicken with kimchi and sticky rice; and perhaps one of the most moreish fish dishes I’ve ever had, Kerala curried whole bream on glass noodles lathered in a sour, spicy and deeply umami masala sauce. Fancy a nightcap after all that food? Head upstairs to the Ugly Butterfly bar, which nabbed the sustainable practices award at the 2023 Class Bar Awards.
What else
While the lodges sit directly on the beachfront, the main hotel building occupies a slightly elevated spot, with a sizable outdoor infinity pool, Bamford spa, and a well-stocked gym. Although, you may prefer to take to the South West Coastal Path to burn those calories; the Salt Path quite literally cuts through the grounds of the hotel. A moderate walk to the west will take you to St Ives town, where some of our favourite spots to eat include Harbour View House for breakfast burritos or margaritas and tacos in the evening, Yallah for coffee, The Fish Shed for small plates and perfect sunset views and West Beach for lunchtime pizzas and Greek plates. Meanwhile, to the east, the path eventually leads to the sand dune-lined expanse of Hayle Beach.
The seafront pool at Carbis Bay Hotel
For those travelling in a group, the hotel also manages a series of coastal houses and cottages dotted along the headland. Our pick of the bunch is Sandsifters Retreat which sleeps six and comes with unparalleled views of the bay. The haunting of Boris Johnson aside, few places in the UK offer as peaceful and all-encompassing a beach holiday as Carbis Bay Hotel – it’s like the Caribbean without the astronomical flights, and slightly less reliable weather.
Rooms start at £260 B&B; carbisbayhotel.co.uk
