What’s the vibe?
My wife and daughter were robbed at The Residence Zanzibar.
Walking back from the swimming pool to our villa, they were accosted by a trio of blue Sykes’ monkeys, who blocked the path and refused to let them pass until my wife surrendered the banana she was carrying. No injuries were reported, although the fruit was never recovered.
For anyone returning from safari who does not want to go cold turkey on wildlife, this sprawling resort on Zanzibar’s south-west coast provides a gentle comedown.
Its tropical gardens host a veritable menagerie: hyraxes serenade diners after dark, flocks of guinea fowl bob through the undergrowth and tiny dik-dik antelope dart between the villas.
The jetty extends out into the Indian Ocean
The undisputed headliners, however, are the Zanzibar red colobus monkeys. Endangered and found only on the island, they are the main attraction at Jozani Forest, where visitors travel considerable distances to see them.
Several troops have made themselves at home in the grounds of The Residence, turning almost any walk through the resort into an impromptu wildlife encounter.
Whether you are practising yoga in the shala, visiting the goats and kitchen garden at the Earth Basket farm or swimming in the vast main pool, the monkeys are rarely far away. They chase one another through the canopy, launch themselves between branches and stage raids on the coconut trees.
Beyond the wildlife, the mood is relaxed, secluded and unhurried. Villas are spread throughout 32 hectares of gardens, each with its own private pool, giving families plenty of space without making the resort feel anonymous. Bicycles are provided for getting around, although travelling on foot allows more time for animal spotting.
The beach bar at The Dining Room
Keegan Checks
What to eat
Breakfast and lunch are highlights, particularly when you bypass the more familiar international dishes and concentrate on local options like octopus curry. Fresh tropical fruit, fragrant spices and Zanzibari flavours provide a welcome final chapter after several days of safari breakfasts and packed lunches.
The Dining Room serves breakfast overlooking the ocean before switching to light lunches and dinners that combine international cooking with Omani, African and Zanzibari influences.
The Pavilion offers a second dinner option, while produce grown in the resort’s Earth Basket kitchen garden feeds into its farm-to-table menus and cooking experiences. Start with the local dishes, order anything involving coconut or spice, return to the fruit before the monkeys get there. Don’t miss sundowners on the jetty – the Cenizaro Sling gives the sunset a run for its money.
The lobby at The Residence Zanzibar
What to do
The temptation at The Residence is to do very little, slowly. There is an immense infinity pool beside the Dining Room that appears to merge with the horizon, a private pool at every villa and a mile-long stretch of coastline, while bicycles make exploring the enormous grounds considerably easier.
Swimming is high on the agenda, whether in the privacy of your villa, in the main pool or, for those strong enough to brave the current, in the Indian Ocean itself.
An unexpected highlight was a tidal walk across the lagoon to the edge of the coral reef, where local women in colourful Zanzibari dress forage for octopus and spider crabs.
The abundance of marine life was remarkable, from eels and sea stars to sea cucumbers, crabs and marine worms. Elsewhere on the water, complimentary activities include kayaking and catamaran sailing, while diving, snorkelling, sandbank tours and dhow cruises can also be arranged.
Back on dry land, weekly yoga sessions offer a calmer way to begin the day, particularly after the early starts of a safari. Families should also visit the Earth Basket garden and resident animals, although the resort’s wild inhabitants remain the greater attraction.
A wander through the grounds can produce sightings of red colobus and Sykes’ monkeys, hyraxes, guinea fowl and tiny antelope without the need for an alarm clock, guide or game-drive vehicle.
Jozani Forest and Stone Town are within reach for anyone determined to leave the resort, but the real pleasure lies in accepting The Residence on its own terms: swimming, eating, cycling and keeping one eye on the trees. Just avoid carrying bananas unless you are prepared to negotiate.
Starting from £249; cenizaro.com
