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There’s a particular pleasure to winter in Austria. Perhaps it begins on the first chairlift of the morning, sunlight catching freshly groomed pistes. Or it comes later, with a steaming plate of käsespätzle in a mountain hut and a host insisting you try another slice of strudel.
It’s a feeling Austrians call Lebensgefühl: an appreciation of life expressed through adventure, good food and generous hospitality. From the great ski areas of the west to the festive cities and sunny mountains of the south, there are plenty of ways to experience it.
It begins on the first chairlift of the morning, sunlight catching freshly groomed pistes
Take St Anton am Arlberg, where skiing is practically a religion. Part of Ski Arlberg, Austria’s largest interconnected ski area, it offers more than 300km of pistes and 200km of high-alpine deep-snow runs, with enough terrain to keep even the most enthusiastic skier busy. Tackle the epic Run of Fame ski circuit, then reward yourself with dinner at Verwallstube, a gourmet mountain restaurant perched at 2,085 metres. Alternatively, trade skis for a sledge on the 4.3km toboggan run.
A stunning scene in Lech Zürs
Ian Ehm / Lech Zürs Tourismus GmbH
Nearby Lech Zürs, which is part of Ski Arlberg, strikes a different note, combining deep-snow adventures with an enviable knack for alpine luxury. Ski the White Ring, a celebrated circuit linking the villages and surrounding slopes, before retiring to an elegant hotel or lingering over a long lunch. With its traditional architecture, welcoming mountain huts and sophisticated dining scene, the resort makes a compelling case for taking your time between runs.
Snowshoeing in the Paznaun with a snow-covered alpine hut
TVB Paznaun Ischgl
Further south, Ischgl dials up the energy. Ischgl’s Silvretta Arena stretches across the Swiss border to Samnaun, with 46 modern lifts and a new eight-seater chairlift for 2026/27. Off the mountain, gourmet dining and the famous Top of the Mountain Concerts lend the resort a festive spirit. For a gentler pace, the neighbouring villages of Galtür, Kappl and See offer family-friendly skiing and snowy walking trails.
Kaiserblick panorama platform on the Schmittenhoehe
Johannes Radlwimmer
Few destinations match the scenery of Zell am See-Kaprun, where lake, mountains and glacier sit side by side. Ski high above Lake Zell on the Schmittenhöhe or head to the Kitzsteinhorn for glacier skiing and sweeping alpine views. Back at lake level, the handsome town of Zell am See makes a lovely setting for an evening stroll, with spas and restaurants to revive tired legs.
Market shoppers amid festive lights in Innsbruck
Tom Bause / Innsbruck Tourismus
Innsbruck, meanwhile, manages the useful trick of being a ski destination and city break in one. There are 12 ski areas in the wider Innsbruck and Stubaital region, from the freeride terrain of Axamer Lizum to the lofty Kühtai ski village. Afterwards, you can be back among the old town’s colourful buildings, visiting the Golden Roof, exploring imperial history or enjoying the bustle of its Christmas markets. Few cities make switching to sightseeing so easy.
The magic of Christmas is alive in Graz
Harry Schiffer / Region Graz
For festive atmosphere, the Graz region takes some beating. From 20 November, 15 Christmas markets fill the old town with artisan gifts and seasonal treats. This winter also marks 30 years of the world’s largest ice nativity scene in the Landhaushof courtyard, while a vast rink beneath the Schlossberg invites visitors to lace up their skates. Beyond Advent, Graz’s celebrated culinary scene and Lumagica’s illuminated installations bring a welcome splash of colour to long winter evenings.
Cross-country skiing in Carinthia, Austria
Franz Gerdl / Kaernten Werbung
In Carinthia, Austria’s southernmost state, there’s an extra helping of sunshine: its ski areas enjoy around 100 more winter sunshine hours than resorts north of the main Alpine ridge. Hit the slopes at Nassfeld or Bad Kleinkirchheim, where early risers can even ski with Olympic champion Franz Klammer on selected mornings. Afterwards, thermal spas and lakeside bathhouses provide a particularly agreeable way to warm up after a long day out in the cold.
St. Johann in Tirol offers yet more cross-country trails to discover
Mirja Geh Photography
Finally, St Johann in Tirol offers an easy-going approach to alpine adventure. Families can explore 40km of local pistes and 18 mountain huts, while cross-country enthusiasts have more than 170km of trails to choose from. Guided moonlit snowshoe walks add another dimension. The region has its own word for those small moments of happiness, too: Mein Yapadu.
And perhaps that’s the real joy of winter in Austria. The mountains are magnificent, certainly, but it’s the people you meet, the meals you share and the moments between adventures that stay with you longest.
Find out more at austria.info
